Last checked October 22, 2026.
Ultra Bee brakes go on a Yozma IN10, IN10 Pro, Tuttio Soleil, Strike or HeyBike with a conversion kit that puts the Surron Ultra Bee rear brake on a mount cut for your frame. The kit runs on your factory rotor and arrives pre-bled. Most of the work is getting the old rear brake out and routing the new line.
We sell this kit, so we're not neutral. It's also the most-ordered part in our store, so most of what follows answers the questions we get before and after people fit one.
Which Ultra Bee brake kit fits my Yozma or Tuttio?
One kit covers all six bikes. You pick your bike from the menu on the Yozma IN10 / Tuttio Soleil / Strike Ultra Bee rear brake kit, and the option you pick decides which version ships. Pads, hardware and reservoir caps for the kit are on the Yozma brake upgrades page.
| Your bike | Pick this option | Price on October 22, 2026 |
|---|---|---|
| Yozma IN10 | YOZMA IN10 | $209.99 |
| Yozma IN10 Pro | YOZMA IN10 PRO | $229.99 |
| Tuttio Soleil | TUTTIO SOLEIL | $209.99 |
| Strike 60V or 72V | 72V STRIKE/60V STRIKE | $229.99 |
| Strike 48V | 48V STRIKE | $229.99 |
| HeyBike | HEY BIKE | $209.99 |
What it doesn't fit:
- Aftermarket rotors. The kit runs on the factory rotor only. If you've already swapped your rear rotor, this kit isn't for that setup.
- ETM RTR Sport and Lite. They take the RTR Sport and Lite kit, machined for that frame.
IN10 or IN10 Pro: the wrong order we see most
The IN10 runs a 12mm rear axle. The IN10 Pro runs a 15mm one. The bikes look close enough that picking the wrong menu option is the most common wrong order we see on Yozma parts, and it costs you a return and a week.
Check the model name on your frame or your paperwork before you add to cart. If it says Pro, pick the Pro option.
What comes in the box
The product page lists it as the Ultra Bee brake assembly, an EXC brake mount, a brake mount pin, a dust cover and EXC stickers. The assembly is the lever and master cylinder, the brake line and the caliper, already connected and already bled.
Two things catch people out when they open it.
The caliper is sitting on a different mount. It ships on its original Ultra Bee mount, and you move it onto the EXC mount made for your frame. If the caliper doesn't look ready to bolt on when you unbox it, that's why.
Spacers. They're in the box for when the rear wheel goes back on: two go on one side and one on the other.
Do Ultra Bee brakes come pre-bled?
Yes. Our brake kits ship pre-bled, so as long as you never open the line, you don't need to bleed anything.
Open the line, though (to shorten it, or to thread it through a tight spot), and you've let air in. Then it needs a bleed before you ride.
The kit uses DOT brake fluid. Never top it up with mineral oil. The wrong fluid ruins the seals.
What you need
- A way to get the rear wheel off the ground. A stand works, or prop the frame on a bucket.
- Wrenches and hex keys for the axle nut, the caliper bolts and the lever clamp.
- A rag or old towel. The old brake drips fluid the second you open it.
- Side cutters and a few zip ties. The old line is zip-tied to the frame, and the new one will need tying down.
- Time. Plan 30 minutes to an hour for a brake kit and a shift lock together. If you route the new line through the triple clamp, you'll be pulling the front wheel too, so give yourself longer.
How to install Ultra Bee brakes on a Yozma IN10 or Tuttio
The full job, in order:
- Disconnect the battery.
- Take off the controller cover.
- Remove the rear wheel.
- Drain and unbolt the old rear brake.
- Pull the old brake line and lever off the bike.
- Clamp the new lever and master cylinder onto the bar.
- Route the new line to the rear wheel.
- mount the caliper to the EXC mount over the factory rotor.
- Refit the rear wheel with the spacers.
- Close everything up and test the brake before you ride.
Where there are two ways to do a step, we show both.
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
Unplug the battery lead and take the battery out before you touch a single bolt. You'll be working right next to the controller and its wiring, so start with the power off.
Step 2: Take off the controller cover
The cover gives you the room to get the old line out and feed the new one in. Only the cover comes off, not the controller.
Step 3: Remove the rear wheel
Undo the axle nut, slide the axle out and roll the wheel clear. Lay the spacers out in the order they came off, left side and right side. You'll want that order when the wheel goes back on.
Step 4: Drain and unbolt the old rear brake
Open the old line at the master cylinder first, with a towel underneath. Fluid comes out as soon as you crack it. The caliper end drips too when you unbolt it.
Wipe up every drop, and keep it off the rotor. Brake fluid on the rotor or pads is one of the first things we ask about when someone says a new brake feels weak.
Step 5: Pull the old line and lever off the bike
Snip the zip ties and pull the old hose out through the frame. It can snag on the way out, so work it through a bit at a time. Then loosen the clamp bolts on the old rear brake lever and slide it off the bar.
Step 6: Clamp the new lever and master cylinder onto the bar
It goes where the old rear lever was. Snug the clamp, sit on the bike and check the lever lands where your fingers do before you tighten it fully.
Step 7: Route the new line to the rear wheel
This is the step that takes the time, and there are two ways to do it.
Keep the line connected. This is the way to go unless you own a bleed kit. The brake stays pre-bled, and you thread the whole assembly through the bike with the caliper on the end. On the IN10 Pro, one route that works runs under the headlight, through the side panel, past the shock and down to the swingarm. To get the line through the triple clamp, take the front wheel off and loosen one fork leg.
Disconnect it for a cleaner route. Taking the hose off the caliper lets you route the bare line and reconnect it at the end. It's tidier, but only do it if you know how to bleed brakes. Open the line, and you've signed up for a bleed.
Whichever way you go, turn the bars all the way left and all the way right once the line is in. It shouldn't pull tight, kink or rub on the tire or the shock at either end.
Step 8: Bolt the caliper to the EXC mount over the factory rotor
Move the caliper from its Ultra Bee mount to the EXC mount, fit the mount pin, and seat the caliper over your factory rotor. Fit the axle through, put the remaining bolts and hardware in place, and tighten everything up.
Get every bolt here fully tight. A mount that moves or vibrates under braking is almost always a mount that isn't tight.
Step 9: Refit the rear wheel with the spacers
Slide the axle back through with the spacers in place (two on one side, one on the other), and tighten the axle nut. Spin the wheel. The rotor should run through the middle of the caliper without rubbing.
Step 10: Close everything up and test the brake before you ride
Refit the controller cover, the fender and the battery.
Then test it, in this order:
- Squeeze the lever a few times. It should feel firm and stay firm.
- Spin the rear wheel and squeeze. It should stop dead and spin free again when you let go.
- Push the bike across the garage and brake.
- Ride at walking pace and brake before you go any faster.
If the lever feels spongy and you never opened the line, stop and check for air or fluid on the pads before you ride.
Common mistakes
- Picking the IN10 option for an IN10 Pro, or the other way round. Check the frame first.
- Ordering for a bike with an aftermarket rotor. The kit runs on the factory rotor only.
- Opening the line without a way to bleed it. If you disconnect it to route it, you need a bleed before you ride.
- Fluid on the rotor or pads from draining the old brake. Clean it off before the new caliper goes on.
- Losing track of the spacers. Note the order when the wheel comes off.
Do Ultra Bee brakes work with 12in supermoto wheels?
Yes. If you're doing both, put the brake kit and the 12in supermoto wheel set in your cart together and $50 comes off the order. That set fits the IN10, Tuttio Soleil 01, Strike Shadow, Valtinsu and HeyBike on a 12mm axle. The IN10 Pro takes the 15mm Mag supermoto wheel set instead.
Ultra Bee brakes for Yozma and Tuttio: FAQ
Do Ultra Bee brakes fit the Yozma IN10 Pro?
Yes. Pick the YOZMA IN10 PRO option on the Yozma / Tuttio Ultra Bee brake kit. It's $229.99 as of October 22, 2026. The regular IN10 option is $209.99.
Do the brakes come pre-bled?
Yes. The kit ships pre-bled, so you don't need to bleed it as long as you keep the line connected during the install. If you disconnect or shorten the line, it needs a bleed before you ride.
What brake fluid does the Yozma Ultra Bee kit use?
DOT brake fluid. Never mix DOT fluid with mineral oil, because the wrong fluid damages the seals.
Do I need a new rotor or bracket?
No. The kit runs on your factory rotor and mounts with the EXC bracket and pin that come in the box. It doesn't work with aftermarket rotors.
How long does it take to install?
Plan on 30 minutes to an hour for a brake kit and a shift lock together. Routing the line through the triple clamp means pulling the front wheel, which adds time.
Keep going
- Every brake part for the bike: upgraded Yozma brakes, kits, pads, hardware and caps for the IN10 and IN10 Pro.
- Planning more than brakes? See our favorite Yozma IN10 upgrades, ranked.
- Every part we make for the bike: Yozma IN10 and IN10 Pro parts and Tuttio Soleil parts.
- Brake kits for other bikes: e-moto brake upgrades.
- Install videos by bike: the EXC videos page.
Prices read from excdesigns.us on October 22, 2026.
